Is your new home properly framed?

How can I tell if my new home is being properly framed?
Building a new home is a process that involves an enormous number of discrete parts, many different people, and many different skills and disciplines.  As it turns out, the framing of a home is probably the second most important and complex step, and it is typically managed by someone who has no special training, license, or oversight (other than that of the Homebuilder).
As you walk through your newly-framed home, there are a few items that are easy to spot, if you know what to look for.
Let’s start with the most critical.
  • At the top of each door opening, there will be two pieces of lumber nailed together, spanning the opening, called a “header”.  The ends of the header rest on two vertical studs (usually 2″ x 4″ ‘s) called “trimmers”.  Look for a gap between the header and the trimmers.  Many times a framer will nail the header to the adjoining studs for temporary support, then install the trimmers later.  In some cases, the trimmers will be just a bit too short (which makes it easier for the framer to install them).  That small gap will show up months later as cracks in the drywall at the upper corners of the door opening.  The cause of the cracks is the header “settling”, or moving down on top of the trimmers over time.  It should sit on the trimmers from the beginning.
  • Around the outside of the exterior walls, at the very bottom where the walls rest on the foundation, there should be a strip of black plastic sheeting sticking out.  That is called “base flashing”.  When the brick layers begin laying brick, they will pull the bottom edge of that flashing out and insert it under one of the first courses of brick, just below the level of the slab.  The brick layers then leave a gap in the mortar about every 4th vertical joint on that same course of brick.  Those gaps are called “weep holes”.  The purpose of the flashing and the weep holes is to allow a controlled exit for any liquid water that might find its way into the air gap between the framed wall and the outer brick wall.  If the flashing is absent, any water that accumulates in the gap could find its way into the framed wall, possibly leading to rot or mold over a period of time.  The same is true if the flashing is installed but the weep holes are not.  Water needs a way to escape, and you want it to flow out of your home, not in.
  • Walk back inside the home and look at the way the roof is framed.  Does it look neat, tidy, and well-planned, or does it look like someone made it up as they went along?  Do you see reinforcing struts leading from the tops of some walls up to the roof framing?  Do the struts appear straight and true, or do they run at weird angles and appear to be scabbed together out of scraps?  These struts are meant to help support the rafters in mid-span.  The problem is that the roof isn’t really subjected to any load that will test those struts until later.  For example, the roof will be subjected to wind loads, the weight of the shingles themselves, snow, etc.  The effects of such loads over time are somewhat cumulative; the framing will creep, or settle, and the struts need to be able to support the rafters without deflecting or failing.  If you’ve ever heard a home creak and groan in the wind, you’ve likely heard the effect of roof framing that’s not well-supported.
  • Now for some general items.
  • Take a look at the lumber in general: does it look new and clean, or does it look like someone used it as a way to walk up to the house on a rainy day?  It shouldn’t look like it’s been drug through the mud.  While the mud won’t necessarily hurt anything, it does give you an idea of the care the framer takes on the job, and might indicate some corners have been cut elsewhere that you won’t see until later.  How much scrap and/or unused material is laying around?  A great deal of cut lumber longer than 2 feet, or a pile of unused material is an indication that the framer, builder, or both don’t really take the time to plan out the framing and order just the right amount of lumber.  That’s waste, and its an indication that you are paying for someone else’s sloppy habits.  Ask the builder who does the material “take-off”, the determination of how much lumber is needed for walls, joists, and rafters.  If his answer is “the framer”, then you know the builder is leaving a lot of the work to chance.
  • Look up at the ceiling joists (the boards that run parallel to the floor that make up the ceiling structure): do the board themselves seem to be in good shape, or do you notice any warping, excessive knots, or splitting?  All those items can lead to cracks later on.
  • If the plumbing, air conditioning, and/or electrical wiring have been installed, take note of any framing the trades people might have altered in order to install any ductwork, pipes, or wires.  Have they excessively notched any studs, joists, beams, etc.?  There should not be any large holes drilled in ceiling joists or beams, and the holes drilled in studs for wiring should be small and nearly centered.
  • Look around for protruding nails or other indications of careless work.  Do the walls seem true and straight?  Are the corners square?  Will any pipes coming up through the slab that should enter the wall cavity be completely contained within the wall space?
  • There are many other items that might be too subtle for the untrained eye to catch, but if you are seeing some of the obvious items I’ve noted above, then there may be some hidden mistakes that won’t show their effects until months, or years, down the road.  Your best bet is to ask your builder about anything that concerns you.  It might be nothing, and if that’s the case, your builder should be able to put your mind at ease.  Or, it might be something, and your builder has already noticed the item and has plans to correct it.  Your builder should be happy to address your concerns and put your mind at ease.
About Tim Turner

Tim Turner earned a degree in mechanical engineering from Oklahoma State University in 1990, then honed his leadership skills as an officer in the US Marine Corps. He returned to Oklahoma in 1994 and spent the next few years as a manufacturing engineer at York International Corporation. Tim joined his father in the home building business in 1999 bringing a wealth of experience, knowledge and

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