A recent customer reminded me of something I take for granted, but he pointed out that most people aren’t aware of many of the potential pitfalls to avoid when hiring a builder to build a new home on your land. Since my customer happens to be a banker, and has seen the good, bad, and ugly of home building practices, I thought I would share what he shared with me. First, he reminded me that many home builders are not on solid financial footing, and that can be risky for someone hiring such a home builder to build on land that you own. Most people don’t realize that if the builder doesn’t pay his bills for some reason, the owner of that partially-built home is going to be on the hook. How would you like to pay twice for your new home?
So, the question is how do you know you’re dealing with a builder who isn’t going to leave you hanging? The good news is there is a fairly simple technique: find out if your home builder has a line of credit with a bank to build homes on his own. If the bank is willing to lend the builder money to build speculatively (meaning building homes that aren’t sold prior to construction), then the chances are that builder is reliable. A reputable bank has built-in methods of analyzing a builder’s finances that can detect if a builder is likely to go out of business and leave you with the bills. So, ask the builder point blank: do you have a line of credit, and if so, with whom? If you get a blank stare or some story about how banks just aren’t lending, it’s time to move on.
Thanks for reading!
Tim
Hey everyone in Central Oklahoma! I am so fired up about the buzz surrounding the 2010 Parade of Homes I felt compelled to write about it, and to say thanks to everyone who has visited this week! We have been covered up with optimistic new home buyers. If you haven’t been out looking at all the new homes in Edmond and Oklahoma City, don’t miss your chance. I’ve seen some really nice work done by many of the great home builders around Oklahoma City and Edmond, and if you don’t get the chance to check out new homes too often, this is a great opportunity.
Despite what you hear in the media regarding what’s going on in the national economy and national market for new homes, we’re going great guns here in Oklahoma, especially in Edmond and Oklahoma City. Our economy is good, our unemployment is low, and we didn’t experience the craziness that much of the nation did with the run-up in new home prices. People in Oklahoma kept their sanity, and didn’t do a lot of crazy financing or speculating when buying new homes. As a result, we didn’t get a big pile of unwanted inventory, and we have all enjoyed solid value in our homes.
Come out and visit the Parade of Homes 2010! You’ll be glad you did, and we will be happy to see you!
Thanks for reading!
-Tim
Right about now, you’re thinking: “Really? I’m going to read a blog written by an Edmond home builder about how to pick an Edmond home builder?” There can’t be any bias here, can there?
OK, I’m being just a little facetious… but really, how do you know you’re hiring the right builder to build your new home in Edmond or Oklahoma City? Of course, if you’re looking to have a new home built, this is something you want to know. Here are just a few tips on what to look for:
- Job site cleanliness: the state of order on the job site is a direct reflection of how a builder runs his/her business. If the job site looks like a tornado just passed (and most do), then ask yourself whether the builder is organized enough to pay close attention to the details of building your new home.
- Days that pass with no work being done: how many days go by between subcontractors doing work on a particular home? Lots of gaps between workers indicate a builder who hasn’t done his/her homework. Are they learning to build as they go? Have they not planned the entire job from start to finish prior to construction? That means the builder is solving construction problems “on the fly”. Do you think the people who build BMW’s and Fords figure out how to build cars “on the fly”, or do you think every detail of every product is planned out from start to finish?
- When you see framers on a job, ask to look at the plans they’re working from. Is there a framing layout designed and approved by a structural engineer? Or does the framer, equipped with a tape measure and circular saw, figure out the structural needs of your new home in Edmond? Whoa… that one’s a little scary.
- How much waste material is laying around? This kind of goes hand-in-hand with my first point, the one about site cleanliness. Lots of waste is a sign that the builder of your new home hasn’t taken the time to figure out exactly what it takes to build it. There are lots of implications there, but the biggest one is this: who’s paying for all that waste? Whoever buys the home! Imagine that: a 30-year mortgage on the contents of a landfill!
I just read an interesting article about media hype and whether anyone thinks now is a good time to buy a home… Guess what the conclusion is? 7 out of 10 people in the United States think now is a good time to buy a home – that’s more than in 2003! Does that mean now is a good time? I’m a home builder – what do you think I’m going to say?
This might come as a surprise coming from someone who makes his living building new homes, but my honest opinion is, only you can determine whether now is a good time. I’ve said this before, but if you’re looking for a home for your family, then the time to buy is when you have the need and the resources to get what you want and need. Are there bargains out there? Maybe. Can you live in a bargain? Your family probably deserves something other than a “bargain”, and if you are in a position to invest in a home for your family, and your family has a need, then it’s time to buy.
Now, let’s make the distinction between “bargain” and “value”: to my way of thinking, everyone deserves to get the most for her or his money, regardless of the product. When I hear the word “bargain”, I think of all that junk in the big bin at the front of the store. You know, the bin you can’t resist looking through until you realize it’s all the junk the store couldn’t sell for full price? Value, on the other hand, means (to me, anyway) something that you are happy to pay good money for. Have you ever heard anyone say, “I want to make sure I get less for my money”? The bottom line is you want to get the most of whatever is most important to you for your dollar. In the case of a home, that might be square footage, convenience, amenities, or any number of things. Again, and I’m repeating myself (please forgive me), you are the only person who can decide what’s most important and whether you are getting a good value. None of that has anything whatsoever to do with whether anyone else thinks it’s a good time to buy.
Did I answer the question whether it’s a good time to buy? I hope not. That’s your call. You can read the original article here http://bit.ly/dsDtx5 .
Thanks for reading!
Tim
Higher quality costs less. Period. That’s a paradox at the very least, if it’s not down right incorrect. Or is it? We’ve been led to believe for years, at least by the homebuilding industry, that high quality costs more. But is it true? It doesn’t have to be. In fact, it never should be.
To make clear what I’m talking about, let’s first define quality. To do that, think of a car: a “high-quality” car should go at least 100,000 miles before needing any major maintenance, maybe further. My wife and I had a 2000 Honda Odyssey minivan that was still going strong at 169,000 miles before we go rid of it (OK, a minor fender-bender, and the insurance company calls it a “total”- not the car’s fault). Now, that van didn’t have many bells and whistles (we knew the kids would trash it anyway), but the main thing is that it cost $26,000 and we drove it for 10 years. That’s $2,600 per year for a car that needed nothing more than an oil change for over 150,000 miles. That’s the definition of quality, and it was a lot less money than the equivalent Chrysler that would have spent half its life in the shop.
Why should you expect less from your home, something that cost several times more money than my minivan? Right about now I would bet that many of you are thinking, “my house has crown molding”, or “yes, but I want granite counter tops”… That’s all well and good, but that’s not quality. That’s how the homebuilding industry defines it, and how many home buyers define it, but those items are bells and whistles. If your granite counter tops have a nasty seam that looks like a speed bump, then those counter tops are low-quality. If your neighbor has Formica counter tops that have invisible seams, then your neighbor’s Formica counter tops are higher quality than your granite ones. Which one costs more? This brings us to the underlying reason why high quality costs less.
Imagine you are the granite counter top installer. You arrive at the job site and discover that the person who installed the cabinets, upon which you are about to install the beautiful granite counter tops, didn’t bother to make sure the cabinets were straight and level. Now, your counter tops are as flat as a pool table, but the surface that will support them is about as flat as the Rocky Mountains. How’s that going to work out? Do you think you’re going to have a problem doing a quality job? Maybe you can cobble something together with some wood shims and so forth, but do you think that’s going to take more or less time than it would if the cabinets were level to begin with? If it takes you more time, are you going to want to be paid more or less for doing the job? All of a sudden, a poor quality job just cost more than a high quality one!
The same principle applies to every stage of home building. How many times does a framing carpenter have to compensate for a foundation or slab that isn’t level and square? How many times does a cabinet maker have to figure out how to install cabinets in a corner that isn’t square? If you were one of those contractors, wouldn’t you charge more for working on those jobs where you had to compensate for someone else’s sloppy work? While your at it, would you really bother trying to do a high-quality job if the builder didn’t insist upon high quality work from the contractor that came before you? From now on, when you look at new homes, ask yourself how much of that high price (probably more than $100 per square foot!) is because of poor quality craftsmanship. More importantly, ask yourself whether you deserve better. I think you already know the answer.
Thanks for reading!
Tim
What is the price per square foot for a new home in Edmond?
If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me that question… well, you know how that goes. So, I bet you think I’m going to give a simple answer? I wish I had one! The reality is that there are a lot of variables that affect the price per square foot of a new home in Edmond or anywhere else. The market for new homes in Edmond isn’t unique; just like any piece of real estate, the three most important factors are: location, location, and location. OK, joking aside, the fact that a new home is located in Edmond has a great deal do with the price per square foot. To begin with, since Edmond is a desirable place to live, the land on which you build your new home will be more expensive than elsewhere around Oklahoma City.
The next biggest impact on the price per square foot is the number of square feet. How does that work? Think about it this way: let’s say the lot you’ve selected for your new home in Edmond costs $30,000, and you want to build a new home that is 3000 square feet. Now, the dollar amount that the cost of the lot contributes to the cost of the new home is $30,000 divided by 3000 square feet, which equals $10 per square foot (you see why I picked those numbers now…makes the math easy!). To see the impact of the lot cost on the price per square foot, now imagine you want your new home to be 1500 square feet. The same lot cost of $30,000 is now only spread out over 1500 square feet; $30,000 divided by 1500 square feet equals $20 per square foot. The size of your new home in Edmond went down by half, but the cost per square foot doubled! The same thing applies to all the other items in the home that have a fixed cost. To say it another way, the cost of anything that goes in your home regardless of the size of the home (appliances, toilets, cabinets, etc.) must be spread out over whatever square footage your home has. An oven costs what an oven costs, whether your new home is 3000 square feet or 1500. If you spread that cost out over more square feet, then the cost per square foot goes down. In general terms, all other things being equal, the bigger the new home, the lower the price per square foot.
As you can imagine, the cost of the materials you choose for your new home in Edmond or anywhere else also has a huge impact on the price per square foot. Let’s say you cover the floors with hardwood instead of carpet. Depending on the wood, that’s going to increase the price by $5 – $20 per square foot (or more, depending on how exquisite your taste).
There you have it – the answer to the question, “what is the price per square foot of a new home in Edmond?”. You can phrase the question another way, such as “how high is up?”.
Thanks for reading!
Tim
I read an interesting article on “How to vet a builder” a few days ago. The link to the article is below. It’s short and sweet, but covers the main points very well, in my opinion. I thought it might be useful to give a builder’s take on the subject. Here goes:
The first point in the article mentions hiring a “good real estate attorney” to review the contract. This is an interesting point, and I’ve had a few customers take my contract (a version of the State Homebuilders’ Association form) to an attorney for review (although I’ve never had one ask for any changes afterward). Even though most builder’s contracts are standard forms approved by the state Homebuilders’ Association, I suppose an unscrupulous builder might try to throw something in there that works to the customer’s disadvantage. Hiring an attorney isn’t cheap, but if it makes you feel better, it’s worth it. Here’s the single caveat I’ll throw in, though: if you don’t trust the builder, and think you need to have an attorney review the contract, then why are you letting him or her build your home in the first place? If you think there’s something in the contract that’s going to cause a problem, what do you think is going to be in the house? Unless you are a uniquely savvy buyer, and have all day, every day, to watch the construction, there’s no way to check every detail of the home being built. What’s my point? Hire a builder you trust, and you won’t have to worry about getting cheated.
Other great points in the article, with which I agree completely, as will any reputable builder: Investigate! Search the builder’s name on the internet to find any information, good or bad. Also, ask other home owners in the neighborhood who bought from that particular builder. The big question to ask: did the builder meet your expectations? It’s all about expectations, and a good builder knows to set the customer’s expectations up front, then live up to them (and exceed them).
Here’s the link to the original article: http://www.realtor.org/RMODaily.nsf/pages/News2010083005?OpenDocument
Thanks for reading, and have a great weekend!
Tim
Many of us tend to think old-school when thinking about how long it takes to build a new home. Take your time and do it right. I agree with that sentiment wholeheartedly. So, when you take your time and do it right, it should take longer to build a new home, right? Wrong! Want to know why? Read on…
“Doing it right” means planning every detail, down to the last stick of lumber, the last tile, and the last light bulb. It means painstaking work designing plans, poring over them to find mistakes and problems that will crop up during construction. It means re-drawing plans, visualizing how the heat & air ducts will run, where the plumbing will be, and figuring out whether a particular framing member will be in the way of a vent, fixture, duct, or wire. Most builders skip these critical, time-consuming steps, knowing that they can always solve the problems “in the field”. The problems always crop up, causing the builder to go back and re-work something, like having to remove framing components to route an air duct, which takes time, costs money, and reduces the overall quality of the job.
When you fix problems like these on paper, rather than on the job, the job moves more smoothly; when the job moves more smoothly, it moves faster. Many builders will tell you it takes them a long time to build a home because they take their time and do it right. Don’t be fooled.
Thanks for reading!
Tim
We’ve all heard the old saying, “Measure twice, cut once”, but it’s really just an old saying, isn’t it? Well, it’s not, and it doesn’t just apply to your backyard home-improvement projects. We usually think of the saying as it applies to cutting a particular piece of material, such as a board, but the assumption is that we know how long the board needs to be in the first place. How do we know how long the board needs to be so we can even measure it once, not to mention twice?
To answer that question, I’m going to shift gears a bit. Think about the assembly line where a Lexus or BMW is built. Do you think the person on the factory floor installing the car’s doors figures out how big to make the door, what material to make it out of, what tool to use to cut the shape, and what type of fasteners to use to attach the door to the car? That’s ridiculous, isn’t it? Even the worst car in the world isn’t built that way. Who would buy a car that was built that way? Nobody, yet chances are that is exactly how your house was built. Your house! I’m willing to bet your house cost more than the least-expensive new car, but for some reason, it’s OK to let the guy with a tape measure and a pencil figure out what kind of material is best for the most critical elements of your home! That’s a bit scary, isn’t it?
When you’re shopping for a new home, ask your builder who designs and fabricates the critical structural components: a licensed Professional Engineer and a team of trained technicians, or a framing carpenter (who, in Oklahoma, practices without any formal training or license)? In most cases, you’ll be shocked at the answer, and yet you’ll be expected to pay six figures for a product that was designed and built on the fly by people who simply don’t have the qualifications necessary to make the decisions they’re expected to make.
Don’t settle for half-baked, seat-of-the-pants construction techniques. It’s your home we’re talking about. You deserve better.
Thanks for reading!
Tim
The more things change, the more they stay the same… Those words strike a chord during these economic times, and it’s no different when you’re talking about your home. Whether the economic news is good or bad, one thing never changes: people always want (and deserve) the most for their money. That applies to a home, whether new or used. How does that affect you?
Well, since each home is unique, there is really only one thing that’s common from one house to another: square feet. Put your Buyer hat on for a moment: if you’re shopping for a home in a certain neighborhood, and you come across two that you want to compare, what’s one way to determine which is the better value? Price per square foot, all other things being equal. How does that affect you when you are the Seller? Think about this: what’s the first thing an appraiser does when trying to determine the value of your home? She measures it. She doesn’t look at the landscaping, doesn’t look at the lovely stainless appliances or the high-end travertine tile. If you want to maximize re-sale value, the safest bet is square footage. You want the most house you can get for the money. Ever heard the old saying, “Buy low – sell high”? It applies to square feet too! If you can get a lot of square feet for the money, it’s like buying at the bottom of the market; those square feet will always have value, but the stainless appliances and stained concrete might not. Think about those avacado-colored appliances your parents or grandparents had. Think those add value to a home today? What do you think might happen to the things that are in style today? Guess what – square footage never goes out of style.
Thanks for reading!
What type of foundation is the best for my new home?
There are three basic foundation types you’ll find in central Oklahoma, and the “best” type depends on many factors, such as soil type, home type, construction standards, and budget.
- Pier and Grade Beam: This type of foundation is fairly common, and it is referred to in different ways, such as “pier and grade” or “pier and beam”. Its defining characteristic is that it is visible when the home is finished, almost always on the sides, and sometimes on the front. It is an engineered system, meaning it must be drawn and approved by a licensed Professional Engineer (P.E.). It is made up of a steel-reinforced concrete “beam” that sits on top of the ground (anything on top of the ground is referred to as being “on grade” or “on finished grade”, hence the name “grade beam”). Every few feet, the beam is supported by a pier that consists of a vertical column of steel-reinforced concrete set at least 18” into the ground. The main advantage of this foundation type is cost: since the foundation is set up and poured in one step, it requires less labor. Since it sits on top of the ground, it requires less concrete and less brick to cover the exterior walls (the brick sits on top of the grade beam, which is why the foundation is visible after the home is complete). The big disadvantage is realized when this foundation type is used on top of expansive (clay) soil. As the Oklahoma red dirt absorbs water, it expands. The opposite happens when the dirt dries out. Since the top layers of soil are the most susceptible to changes in moisture content, the grade beam is subject to the heaving and settling motion of the soil at the surface. This soil movement can result in vertical and horizontal foundation movement, and in some cases, twisting. While such movement isn’t necessarily an indication of failure, it can be a nuisance when it causes drywall and/or brick cracks.
- Footing and Stem Wall: This is possibly the most common foundation type found in central Oklahoma. It requires no engineering because its design and construction specifications are detailed in the International Residential Code, the guidelines used by the vast majority of cities and counties in Oklahoma and elsewhere. Its big advantage is ease of construction; since it is so widely used, any foundation contractor is well-versed in its installation requirements. It consists of a “footing” (sometimes called a “footer”), which is a steel-reinforced beam set into the ground at the home’s perimeter. Once the concrete in the footing has cured sufficiently, a “stem wall” is formed from plain concrete (non-reinforced) directly on top of the footing. Sometimes the stem wall is tied to the footing with steel reinforcing bars (re-bar), sometimes not. The home’s exterior walls will be framed on top of the stem wall. The brick will sit just outside the stem wall on top of the footing. The disadvantage of this type of foundation is cost; it consumes more labor, concrete, and brick. It is not as susceptible to soil expansion as the Pier and Grade Beam, but it is not immune.
- Post-Tensioned Slab: This is the least common foundation type found in central Oklahoma, but its use is growing due to the foundation’s robust design and construction. This type of foundation has been used for years in commercial construction, where larger loads and lower tolerance for cracks are common. The post-tensioned slab consists of a footing and floor slab poured as one unit. Inside the slab there are high-strength steel cables running front-to-back and side-to-side through the slab and foundation. Once the concrete has cured for a few days, workers return to the job and pull the ends of the cables using hydraulic rams, putting them under high tension; once tensioned, the ends are allowed to pull on the concrete, compressing the concrete. This makes the foundation and slab become a single, extremely strong unit. This type of foundation is extremely robust, and can tolerate very high amounts of soil movement without showing any signs of deflection. Owners of homes built this way report fewer effects of movement, such as cracks in drywall and brick. One disadvantage of this foundation type is initial cost, although over time the absence of significant movement, or “settling”, probably outweighs the initial cost.
Now, to answer the question I initially posed, “What is the best Foundation Type?”. The answer is, it depends. You’ll find existing homes with all 3 types of foundations, with the Footing and Stem being the most common. You’ll also find movement and the related cosmetic problems on many homes built with the first 2 types, while you’ll also find plenty of homes with the first 2 types that show no evidence of movement. That depends a great deal on the soil conditions, which can vary widely.
The third type, the Post-Tensioned Slab, is unquestionably the “best” in terms of performance over the long haul. You just need to decide whether it’s worth the extra cost. Some builders might charge extra for this type, while others absorb the extra initial cost, knowing it will pay off in fewer warranty calls and many more happy customers. There is a reason why commercial builders have been using the post-tensioned slab for years; it carries the loads better over a longer period of time, and isn’t subject to the vagaries of soil composition the way the others are.
- At the top of each door opening, there will be two pieces of lumber nailed together, spanning the opening, called a “header”. The ends of the header rest on two vertical studs (usually 2″ x 4″ ‘s) called “trimmers”. Look for a gap between the header and the trimmers. Many times a framer will nail the header to the adjoining studs for temporary support, then install the trimmers later. In some cases, the trimmers will be just a bit too short (which makes it easier for the framer to install them). That small gap will show up months later as cracks in the drywall at the upper corners of the door opening. The cause of the cracks is the header “settling”, or moving down on top of the trimmers over time. It should sit on the trimmers from the beginning.
- Around the outside of the exterior walls, at the very bottom where the walls rest on the foundation, there should be a strip of black plastic sheeting sticking out. That is called “base flashing”. When the brick layers begin laying brick, they will pull the bottom edge of that flashing out and insert it under one of the first courses of brick, just below the level of the slab. The brick layers then leave a gap in the mortar about every 4th vertical joint on that same course of brick. Those gaps are called “weep holes”. The purpose of the flashing and the weep holes is to allow a controlled exit for any liquid water that might find its way into the air gap between the framed wall and the outer brick wall. If the flashing is absent, any water that accumulates in the gap could find its way into the framed wall, possibly leading to rot or mold over a period of time. The same is true if the flashing is installed but the weep holes are not. Water needs a way to escape, and you want it to flow out of your home, not in.
- Walk back inside the home and look at the way the roof is framed. Does it look neat, tidy, and well-planned, or does it look like someone made it up as they went along? Do you see reinforcing struts leading from the tops of some walls up to the roof framing? Do the struts appear straight and true, or do they run at weird angles and appear to be scabbed together out of scraps? These struts are meant to help support the rafters in mid-span. The problem is that the roof isn’t really subjected to any load that will test those struts until later. For example, the roof will be subjected to wind loads, the weight of the shingles themselves, snow, etc. The effects of such loads over time are somewhat cumulative; the framing will creep, or settle, and the struts need to be able to support the rafters without deflecting or failing. If you’ve ever heard a home creak and groan in the wind, you’ve likely heard the effect of roof framing that’s not well-supported.
- Take a look at the lumber in general: does it look new and clean, or does it look like someone used it as a way to walk up to the house on a rainy day? It shouldn’t look like it’s been drug through the mud. While the mud won’t necessarily hurt anything, it does give you an idea of the care the framer takes on the job, and might indicate some corners have been cut elsewhere that you won’t see until later. How much scrap and/or unused material is laying around? A great deal of cut lumber longer than 2 feet, or a pile of unused material is an indication that the framer, builder, or both don’t really take the time to plan out the framing and order just the right amount of lumber. That’s waste, and its an indication that you are paying for someone else’s sloppy habits. Ask the builder who does the material “take-off”, the determination of how much lumber is needed for walls, joists, and rafters. If his answer is “the framer”, then you know the builder is leaving a lot of the work to chance.
- Look up at the ceiling joists (the boards that run parallel to the floor that make up the ceiling structure): do the board themselves seem to be in good shape, or do you notice any warping, excessive knots, or splitting? All those items can lead to cracks later on.
- If the plumbing, air conditioning, and/or electrical wiring have been installed, take note of any framing the trades people might have altered in order to install any ductwork, pipes, or wires. Have they excessively notched any studs, joists, beams, etc.? There should not be any large holes drilled in ceiling joists or beams, and the holes drilled in studs for wiring should be small and nearly centered.
- Look around for protruding nails or other indications of careless work. Do the walls seem true and straight? Are the corners square? Will any pipes coming up through the slab that should enter the wall cavity be completely contained within the wall space?
